At The Taco Crossroads: A Sampling Of Manila’s Top Taquerias

Chef Patrick Curitana overseeing the pass at Los Tacos

I brought my two kids to an activity park not long ago — the ones where dads, if limber and foolhardy enough to show their kids up, are encouraged to participate. I engaged my son in a little one-on-one basketball in an enclosed net cage, raced my daughter on a simulated treadmill racetrack, and jumped on trampolines, all to near exhaustion. Being a child of the 80’s, it doesn’t take much to regain the thrill of lost memories just waiting to be relived; albeit nowadays with a whole lot of caution and pain. Many middle-aged burned calories later, we scoured the mall for a late lunch. My eyes lit up all of a sudden when I spotted a familiar logo at the opposite side of the promenade — my beacon of sustenance after late-night screenings of Twister or Mission: Impossible at Century Theatre on Whipple Avenue in California, circa 1996: Taco Bell. A couple of taco supremes were all it took to make my Mexican dreams come true back then. My kids discovered and loved it for the very first time that very Sunday as nostalgia hit hard and they completed the circle.

The Philippines and Mexico are no strangers to each other. There are many similarities between our cultures such as religion, Spanish-sounding surnames, and shared history. The Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade was an essential aspect in the shaping of international commerce and cultural exchange in our nation — a trade route that connected Europe, the Americas, and Asia, spanning 250 years and introducing many crops to our shores, including tomatoes and avocados: necessary ingredients in building the ideal taco. The Mexican food scene, in steady bloom over the years, is now flourishing with serious taquerias in select corners of the city. These are among my personal selections.

A miniature model of the galleon ship El Almirante at the San Agustin Museum

La Chinesca — A pioneer of this movement, Chef Bruce Ricketts has been plying his trade for well over 10 years, educating our palates in the intricacies between a taco campechano and a wagyu suadero while exhibiting pure street flair. With several outposts in the city, I’ve found myself frequenting the one at The Grid — a food court with a large number of stalls representing a wide variety of cuisines, located at Power Plant Mall in Rockwell. Strangely enough, every visit has had me zeroing in on stall #10 to enjoy my usual sampler of tuna tostadas, carnitas, carne asada, and chicharrón tacos washed down with a dirty horchata, no matter my resolve. “I’ll explore more next time” is what I repeatedly tell myself. I’ve likewise been to their BGC (Bonifacio Global City) outpost in a proper restaurant setting with a wider selection. This is the OG in my book.

The Grid: 2/F Power Plant Mall, Makati City

East Gallery Place, 28th St., Bonifacio Global City, Metro Manila

A taco plate at La Chinesca BGC

Lagrima — Tucked at the end of a quiet street in Salcedo Village is a place I visited many years ago — in their erstwhile location on the other side of Makati — for a taste of their street tacos washed down with a couple of Coronas. Long overdue for a return visit, my over-enthusiasm turned into a binge. My friend and I started with a plate of Super Nachos with carnitas and chorizo, which went well with their selection of local IPAs. I then attempted to conquer their Knights of the Round — a sampler of gringas, similar to a quesadilla filled with melted cheese and a choice of carnitas, pollo asado, carne asada, al pastor, shrimp, and fish — as my friend, looking at me incredulously, prudently paced his meal with half the quantity. A messy yet tasty spectacle ensued, brightened with lime and doused from squeeze bottles of red and green salsas. Quite the view, as I was oblivious to the glances of passersby on the other side of the window seats while I went about my unfettered business. Not something I dispatched in one go, but it surely hit the spot when eaten directly from the takeout box a few hours and cervezas later.

G/F Paseo Parkview Suites, San Agustin Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City, Metro Manila

The Knights Of Round at Lagrima

Mamacita — I visited this Michelin-recognized spot in Bonifacio Global City during a period of abstinence from meat and alcohol — a huge challenge for one so inclined to having his meat tacos washed down with beer or tequila. I wondered if a dry and meatless dinner at such a spirited locale, with the DJ’s set about to begin, could actually work. I arrived at the bar where plates of Elote (grilled corn in chipotle mayonnaise with sesame, chips, and seaweed), Ceviche (fisherman’s catch marinated in leche de tigre with poblano, tomato, and cucumber), and Caesar Salad (crunchy romaine tossed in garlic anchovy dressing with fried capers, tomato, and masa-fried onion crumbs) — and my friend — were already waiting. The huge, colorful calaveras scrutinized us from every corner as we ate. Coming off a day-long fast, we proceeded to order two rounds each of Baja fish (with chipotle frijoles, cilantro crema, pickled cabbage, pineapple salsa), Camarones (with salsa macha and cabbage), and Gobernador tacos (prawns, roasted green peppers, quesillo, caldo de camarón). The kitchen was assembling tacos as fast as people could order them that night — a testament to Chef Charles Montañez’s talent and draw. The Tajín fries were crazy good, too. I returned a few months later — a visit I owed myself for the full experience — just in time for a last order of Carnitas and Campechano tacos alongside their Cacao Tree in Oaxaca signature cocktail before the kitchen closed past midnight.

Forbestown Road, Bonifacio Global City, Metro Manila

The Elote, Ceviche, & Caesar salad at Mamacita

Los Tacos — Less than 2 km away lies another taqueria that thrives on strong word of mouth. Located in Uptown Residences, Los Tacos is a more subdued affair serving serious food this side of the Yucatán. With an open kitchen and a cadre of cooks manning and fanning the coals, this sophisticated restaurant serving refined takes on Mexican fare benefits greatly from Chef Patrick Curitana’s ever-constant presence as the team deftly coaxes fire and smoke to help set the mood. Not quite the place to take a pre-teen with a growing appetite for lunch, as I came to learn one Saturday afternoon. I enjoyed small plates of ceviche (swordfish in a grilled pineapple aguachile with lime leaf oil) followed by shrimp tostadas (shrimp with a drizzle of crab fat crema, salsa fresca, and red radish preserve). My boy enjoyed two small plates of campechano tacos (tender wagyu beef cheeks on blue corn tortillas with chorizo Mexicano and salsa tatemada) very much — though as far as youngsters go, he was longing for something more familiar, which led us to the nearest burger spot for him to be fully satiated. I’ve since returned on more than one occasion with the proper company. The perfect start was an order of Esquites (grilled corn, habanero anchovy crema, and a generous shaving of manchego), followed by the Tostada de cecina (salt-cured ribeye, edamame guacamole, chili crema). The server warned me not to expect a steak in its usual doneness — what arrived were slivers of extremely rare meat atop a crisp corn tortilla. This dish pushed boundaries and delivered a wholly sublime outcome. Tacos de pescado (beer-battered fish, mango habanero jam, pickled cabbage) followed the preceding dishes beautifully, the meal enjoyed with a glass of Madre Ensamble from Oaxaca, on the rocks. This Bib Gourmand recipient was exactly as advertised.

UGF, One Uptown Residences, 36th Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig, Metro Manila

The Tostada de cecina at Los Tacos

Taqueria Franco — Another Bib Gourmand recipient, this was the latest restaurant on my radar and had been for quite some time. While strictly not a Mexican restaurant, it is an exciting prospect given the French influence woven into the construction of its tacos. Joel Robuchon-trained Chef Miko Calo leads the charge with panache and Latin flair. I was lucky enough to snag the last table on a busy Wednesday evening. I started with the Junk Le Bon — a foil bag of Granny Goose Tortillos loaded with garlic béchamel, beef haché, tomato concassé, pistou, feta cheese, and Franco pepper sauce — and their Octopus Fry with eggplant, honey, tajín, and pickled green chili with a harissa mayo dipping sauce, brand new on the menu. A cocktail of The Fig and the Goat, a dirty martini made rich with goat cheese-washed gin, was the perfect drink between courses. We struck a fine balance between land and sea with our taco orders: Soft-shell crab expertly deep-fried with cilantro, harissa mayo, chili-lime vinaigrette, and purple cabbage; followed by pork confit — tender Pork belly confit in ginger BBQ sauce with cabbage, sesame dressing, parsley, basil, and a sprinkle of sesame seeds. Prawn tacos followed perfectly, with rouille, avocado mousse, Franco pepper sauce, and chili-lime vinaigrette — the acidity of which set the stage for the finale: Lamb Bourguignon Birria with oyster mushrooms, parsley-coriander pesto, and emmental dunked in flavorful lamb jus. My friend and I were too full for dessert and looked forward to our stogie and whiskey nightcap at a nearby cigar bar.

130 LPL Center, L.P. Leviste Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City, Metro Manila

The Prawn tacos at Taqueria Franco

House of Birria — A notable mention: ordering from this joint on E. Rodriguez in Quezon City was a highlight and a source of sustenance for my brood, keeping them sane and satisfied during those post-pandemic days. Patience may have been tested on more than one occasion living on the other side of the city while waiting for our orders, but all was smoothed over once those boxes of birria tacos loaded with beef, cilantro, and onion arrived. With a generous squeeze of lime and salsa on the side, that bowl of hot beef consommé was just waiting to be dunked into.

1216 E. Rodriguez Sr. Avenue, Quezon City, Metro Manila

The Premium beef birria at House of Birria